Buying Guide
Not all locks are equal — here’s how to pick one that matches where and how long you’ll actually leave your bike parked.
A bike lock’s job isn’t to make theft impossible — it’s to make your bike take longer to steal than the one parked next to it, or than a thief is willing to spend in a visible public spot. That framing changes how you should shop.
This guide ranks lock types by real-world security and explains when to combine two locks, which is the single biggest security upgrade most commuters skip.
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U-locks (D-locks) are the baseline standard for commuter security — hardened steel shackles resist bolt cutters and are difficult to pry. A quality U-lock is the single most important lock in your setup.
Chain locks with a hardened-steel chain and a separate lock body offer similar security to a U-lock with more flexibility to lock around awkward frame shapes or through both wheels, at the cost of more weight to carry.
Folding locks (articulated steel bars) pack more compactly than U-locks while offering comparable security from quality brands — a good middle ground for riders who want a smaller carry footprint.
Cable locks are the weakest common option — easily cut with basic tools in seconds. Use a cable lock only as a second, supplementary lock (e.g., to secure a wheel), never as your only lock in an unattended public location.
Thieves who carry bolt cutters or angle grinders are usually equipped for one lock type, not two. Locking with a U-lock through the frame and rear wheel, plus a cheaper cable lock through the front wheel (if it’s quick-release), covers both wheels and the frame without needing to carry two expensive locks.
Where and how you lock matters as much as what you lock with: always lock to a fixed, immovable object, keep the lock shackle as full as possible (less room to insert a pry tool), and position the keyhole facing down to make it harder to pick or pour debris into.
Security and weight are in direct tension — the most theft-resistant locks are also the heaviest to carry daily. If your bike is parked in a high-theft area for hours (a train station, a busy downtown street) for most of the day, it’s worth carrying a heavier, more secure lock. If you’re mostly parking briefly in lower-risk spots, a lighter folding or compact U-lock is a reasonable tradeoff.
A U-lock is significantly more theft-resistant than a cable lock and should be your primary lock. Cable locks are fine as a secondary lock (for a second wheel) but are easily cut and shouldn’t be relied on alone in public.
Yes, if the bike is parked unattended in public for meaningful stretches of time. Two different lock types force a thief to carry and use two different sets of tools, which meaningfully reduces the pool of people willing or equipped to steal it.
Lock to a fixed, immovable object; run the lock through the frame (not just a wheel); keep as little empty space inside the shackle as possible; and position the keyhole facing downward. Park in visible, well-lit areas when you have the choice.